Looking for a West Bali Journey? Start at Pura Pulaki and End at Banyuwedang Hot Spring

 

In October 2024, I took my scooter west from Singaraja for a 3-day, 2-night trip. Sometimes travel isn’t about covering as many spots as possible; sometimes it’s about moving slow, letting the road lead you, and staying long enough to really feel a place.

Day One: The Road and the Temple

On the way down from Singaraja, I stopped at Pura Pulaki, one of Bali’s important sea temples. The pura sits dramatically by the ocean, with black sand stretching in front and waves crashing right behind its walls. The temple is alive with monkeys, rituals, and the kind of energy that only coastal temples seem to hold.

That morning, locals were holding a ceremony. I didn’t join in, but I lingered. I spent nearly an hour just strolling the beach, watching the ceremony from a distance, listening to the waves. It was one of those pauses that wasn’t planned but felt necessary. Travel is often like that: the in-between moments stay with you longer than the destination itself.

By late afternoon, I reached the Banyuwedang area, where I stayed for the night. West Bali feels different from the rest of the island, quieter, rawer, with the air carrying more salt than incense.

Day Two: The Hot Spring

The next morning, I went to Banyuwedang Hot Spring. I arrived early, around 6:45 AM, when the air was still soft, warm but not yet heavy.

The entrance fee for locals was Rp 15,000 with no parking charge, and lockers were available for Rp 5,000. I don’t know the exact price for foreigners (with or without KITAS), but for locals, it’s simple and affordable.

The pools were already alive with a handful of locals starting their day. That’s the beauty of Banyuwedang, it isn’t built around tourists, it’s part of the local rhythm. A place where people come to soak, heal, and carry on with their day.

And the water? Hot. Really hot. Not a lukewarm spa pool, but the kind of heat that forces your body to relax, that pulls tension out of your muscles almost instantly. If you’ve been to Toya Devasya in Kintamani, you’ll know the difference. Toya has the scale, the fame, the curated view. Banyuwedang has honesty. It doesn’t try to impress, it just is.

Facilities are straightforward: bathrooms, changing rooms, and lockers. I brought my own towel from the hotel, so I can’t say if they rent them out. This isn’t luxury; it’s a community hot spring. But maybe that’s exactly why it feels right.

Instead of mountains, the pools face mangroves and the sea. The salt breeze mixes with sulfur heat, and the whole place feels like it’s been waiting for you to simply sit down, stop, and breathe.

That morning, I let myself do exactly that. Travel doesn’t always give you answers. Sometimes it just gives you the space to sit with your questions. And that’s what Banyuwedang gave me: warmth, stillness, and the reminder that even if nothing is solved, I can still breathe.

Day Three: The Road Back

On my way home to Ubud, I passed Pura Pulaki again. This time, I didn’t stop for long, but I slowed down enough to glance at the waves and the temple walls. There’s a strange comfort in seeing the same place twice on one trip, like a bookend to the journey, a reminder of where you’ve been and what you’re carrying back with you.

West Bali doesn’t rush you. It doesn’t demand. It just waits. And if you let it, it will hold you.

Will I go back? Absolutely. Not because it’s glamorous or Instagram-famous, but because it’s real. And sometimes real is enough.

Quick Guide: Banyuwedang Hot Spring

• Location: Banyuwedang, near West Bali National Park (Gerokgak, Buleleng)

• Entrance Fee (Locals): Rp15,000,-

• Locker Fee (Locals): Rp 5,000,-

• Parking: Free

• Facilities: Lockers, bathrooms with showers, changing rooms (bring your own towel)

• Best Time to Visit: Early morning for peace & quiet, or late afternoon before sunset

• Extra Stop: Pura Pulaki (worth an hour to stroll the beach and watch the ceremonies if you’re lucky)